Application of Plant Active Ingredients in Cosmetics
Application of Plant Active Ingredients in Cosmetics
Whitening plant extracts
Skin whitening mechanism is mainly in the skin melanin production, metabolic process to inhibit the production of melanin, melanoma inhibition mechanism can be divided into intracellular inhibition and extracellular inhibition. Intracellular inhibition refers to inhibition of melanin formation by the main rate-limiting enzyme tyrosinase activity or inhibition of tyrosinase synthesis, thereby inhibiting the formation of melanin. Extracellular inhibition refers to inhibition of endothelin-1 and endothelin-2 to inhibit melanin formation. At present, the domestic and international cosmetics industry in the application of a wide range of plant extracts whitening ingredients are mainly arbutin and plant flavonoids.
Β-arbutin, chemical name 4-hydroxybenzene-β-D-glucopyranoside, is a natural active substance isolated from plants, can quickly penetrate the skin, effectively inhibit the skin tyrosinase Of the activity, blocking the formation of melanin, reduce intracellular melanin content, reduce skin pigmentation, thereby eliminating the stain and freckles. Β-arbutin is the safest and effective whitening raw material. Therefore, it is used clinically to whiten skin, dilute spots, repair dull, uneven skin color and prevent the formation of freckles, and even improve the sun injury marks and adjust the process of pigment formation.
Flavonoids are mainly found in plants, with the removal of free radicals in the skin, promote metabolism, reduce melanin deposition, moisturizing the skin and so on. Glycyrrhiza flavonoids extracted from licorice have a variety of effects in cosmetics. Zhang Zhidong and other studies have shown that licorice flavonoids can penetrate the skin and maintain high activity, effectively inhibit the formation of melanin in a variety of enzyme activity. At the same time, licorice flavonoids also have to prevent skin roughness and anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, it is a versatile plant whitening ingredient that deserves further research and development.
Many study has show that ursolic acid which extract from rosemary has the good function of Skin whitening. Many cosmetics company has use it to instead of chemical ingredients .
Anti-aging plant extracts
With the growth of age, the skin began to show aging, including the skin of collagen, elastin, mucopolysaccharide and other content of varying degrees of reduction, the supply of skin nutrition, vascular atrophy, decreased vascular wall elasticity, skin epidermis gradually thinning, subcutaneous fat reduction, wrinkles, chloasma and age spots appear. The main reason for these phenomena is the increase in free radicals. Therefore, the removal of excessive body free radicals is an important way to solve skin aging.
Proanthocyanidin (OPC) is a polyphenolic compound extracted from plants. The maximum content of OPC in grape seed extract is 95%, which is internationally recognized as the most effective natural antioxidant to remove free radicals in human body. Strong in vivo activity. Experiments show that OPC anti-free radical oxidation capacity is 50 times the vitamin E, vitamin C 20 times. Domestic and foreign studies have shown that procyanidins can resist free radicals, anti-aging, to help the absorption of vitamin C and E, reduce UV damage, reduce melanin precipitation, prevent collagen fibers and elastic fiber damage, so that the skin should maintain the elasticity and tension Skin sagging and wrinkles. Procyanidins anti-wrinkle, whitening, moisturizing and anti-radiation and other effects for its cosmetics in the field opened up a broad prospect
Also known as plant tannins, for the plant body complex phenolic secondary metabolites, with a multi-phenol structure. Common polyphenols include tea polyphenols, grape polyphenols, peel polyphenols and the like. It has antioxidant, free radicals, promotes cell self-repair, inhibits the role of melanin and so on. It can also absorb the ultraviolet light to achieve the effect of whitening, through the complex effectively absorb the entire area of ultraviolet light, reducing the generation of melanin. Skin blackening, freckles, brown spots and senile plaques are associated with increased activity of tyrosinase and peroxidase in the body, tyrosinase in the skin tissue melanocyte metabolism in the catalytic role, resulting in increased melanin secretion, peroxidation Enzymes catalyze the lipid peroxidation process while accelerating skin aging. Plant polyphenols through the tyrosinase and peroxidase inhibition, to achieve whitening effect.
It is a new type of natural antioxidant. At room temperature, low concentration of tea polyphenols has a strong antioxidant, it can block ultraviolet light and remove UV-induced free radicals, thus protecting the normal function of melanoma cells, it can also inhibit cell tyrosinase and Catalase activity, thereby reducing the secretion of melanin and lipid peroxidation, to achieve freckle beauty effect.
Grapes in the extraction of natural plant polyphenols active substances, widely present in the grapes of the skin, seeds, flesh. Grape seed polyphenol content of about 5% to 8%. Grape polyphenols mainly by catechins, epicatechin condensation from oligomeric procyanidins composition. Grape polyphenols have a strong antioxidant, can resist free radical damage, effectively delay aging, promote the role of metabolism.
A class of important bioactive substances naturally present in apples, divided into phenolic acids and their hydroxy acid esters, carbohydrate derivatives and flavonoids. Can remove excess free radicals in the body, in the aqueous system to inhibit the automatic oxidation of unsaturated fatty acids; to prevent the destruction of carotene; to prevent the destruction of water-soluble vitamins; to eliminate the activity of superoxide radicals. In addition, Apple’s maturity is different, the main components of the content are also different. Mature apple polyphenols mainly chlorogenic acid, catechins, and procyanidins, etc., while the immature apple contains more dihydroxy chalcone, flavonol compounds.
The active ingredients rosemary acid which extract from rosemary can anti-oxidant . It is a kind of natural preservative too , it is widely used in cosmetics in the Europen Country , it is also can use as food additive with the function of natural preservative , and used as feed additive to anti-biotics.
Moisturizing and repairing skin plant extracts
Epidermal barrier function weakened lead to dry skin is an important feature of skin aging. Skin moisturizing is the result of a combination of the sebum film and the natural moisturizing factor present in the keratinocytes that are coated on the skin surface to inhibit the evaporation of water. Collagen and elastin are two important proteins that make up the dermis of the skin. Collagen can give strength and toughness to the extracellular matrix, while elastin imparts elasticity to the skin. Aging skin synthesis of collagen and elastin decreased, collagen fibers become thick, abnormal cross-linked, resulting in decreased elasticity of the skin, wrinkles increased. Therefore, an important way to solve the problem of skin aging is to moisturize and repair the skin barrier function. Anti-aging cosmetics by adding hyaluronic acid is a moisturizing and skin barrier repair function of the typical representative.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a polymer mucopolysaccharide consisting of D-N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid as a structural unit. The hyaluronic acid extracted from aloe vera is a plant moisturizing and soothing agent. Studies have shown that HA molecules in the carboxyl and other polar groups can form hydrogen bonds with water and combine a lot of water, so as to play a role in the skin tissue water retention, the theoretical water retention value of up to 500ml / g above, in connective tissue Of the actual water retention value of about 80ml / g. In addition, HA and sulfated mucopolysaccharides and collagen, elastin and other fibrous proteins together with a large number of liquid containing extracellular colloidal matrix, a cell metabolism of the material exchange medium, this water-like gelatinous matrix to make the skin flexible, rich Elastic, so that the skin smooth and delicate. HA can also promote the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells, prevent and repair skin damage. HA can also prevent the production of some enzymes in cells, reduce the formation of free radicals, in the prevention of free radical damage to cell structure, resulting in lipid peroxidation and cause aging in the body plays an important role.
Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin, also known as tocopherol, is one of the most important antioxidants. Wheat germ and rice germ in the wheat germ oil and rice germ oil vitamin E content is very high, is a high-quality emollient. Studies have shown that vitamin E can stabilize the cell membrane protein activity structure, promote muscle development and maintain the skin’s elasticity, so that the skin and body to maintain vitality; while vitamin E can also enter the skin cells directly help the skin against free radicals, ultraviolet and contaminants Of the infestation, to prevent the skin due to some chronic or recessive damage and loss of flexibility until aging.
Promote skin cell metabolism and sunscreen plant extracts
Natural skin aging is the essence of skin cell proliferation, differentiation, and cell aging, the balance between apoptosis disorders, thus promoting the proliferation of new skin cells, aging cells that promote cell metabolism is to solve the natural aging of the skin an important way. In addition, the sun’s ultraviolet light is the main cause of skin aging. Ultraviolet radiation can cause skin erythema and delayed melanin calm, damage the skin’s moisturizing ability so that the skin becomes rough, wrinkles increased, so the use of UV scattering agent and absorbent sunscreen cosmetics has become effective to protect the skin from UV damage means.
AHA is an acid extracted from natural fruits and vegetables, which can effectively penetrate the pores, control a variety of skin diseases, help epidermal keratinocytes shedding, promote the production of new cells, metabolism of melanin, improve the rough, so that the skin Shiny, smooth and delicate. It is reported that different concentrations of acid can reduce the epidermal keratinocytes between the coagulation force, remove the aging skin, improve rough, dull, conditioning skin. But the acid will stimulate the skin, so that the skin thinner, vulnerable to UV damage, so the use of the process should pay attention to sunscreen.
2. At present, both at home and abroad are committed to the selection and development of natural sunscreen. He Xilai and other studies have found that the effective extraction of plant Sophora Rutin is an ideal natural sunscreen. Guo Ling and other found that the effective components of Scutellaria extract also has a natural sunscreen as a function and value. In addition, aloe vera, licorice, Lithospermum, cinnamon, seabuckthorn, white fungus in the application of sunscreen also have reported.
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